ONLY
IN
MALTA!BY VICTOR A. VELLA
It is the largest little island in the world, not so much by its size but by its impact on the world which is out of proportion to it’s diminutive state. It is rich in culture and history drawing the literati to its shores for a serious look at its marvels and wonders. It is an archeological jewel second to none, with many a splendid example of classical and baroque edifices. It houses the oldest known prehistoric temples in the world predating the Giza pyramids, and the large standing stones at Stonehenge, by a few millennia. Valletta its capital, an architectural masterpiece is a soon to be designated world heritage site by the United Nations. Within its 122 square miles it has more churches than the year has days, including two cathedrals. All village churches were built with private funds. Labor was volunteered by the devout parishioners. It is the only European country with a semitic language written in western script. Arab sounding diction is noted in modern Greek/Latin style ... bridging the two, similar to the way the Rosetta Stone translated the Greek into hieroglyphic text. The vast majority of the Maltese people converse in English, also recognized as an official language. Italian and French are widely spoken. Visitors to the island are perplexed at the Maltese habit of switching between three or four languages in the course of conversation, or a sentence. Maltese ancestry is a diverse mix ... the offspring of seafarers from Europe, and the Middle-East. A few claim noble heritage from the Knights of Malta, a somewhat disputable matter considering that the knights were sworn to celibacy.The Knights of Malta were not its only masters. Because the island sits at the hub of three continents, it has given strategic advantage to aspiring foreign powers. Over the centuries Malta saw and welcomed many rulers. The Phoenicians, the Carthaginians, the Romans, the Arabs, the Normans, the French and the English, all left their mark . Surprisingly, although Malta has had many sovereigns it has bowed to no conqueror. The Saracens tried it in 1565AD, as they stormed the bastions in an attempt to force Islam onto Europe through Malta. They failed despite the tremendous odds in their favor of 400:1. Hitler tried it in 1940AD-1943AD with no success as the ravaged tiny island withstood the full brunt and fury of the then invincible Axis. Yet, despite their tumultuous past, the Maltese are best known for their gentility, friendship and hospitality, which is legendary. They possess an easy-going disposition toward foreigners. They savor life and family, festas and siestas, and they display an evangelical zeal towards their Roman Catholic heritage. It is often said that Malta is more catholic than the pope. Perhaps not, however Malta is one of only two remaining countries in the world where divorce is not allowed! They mix openly and freely extending their hearts to strangers from other lands. Visitors are incredulous at the sight of house keys hanging from doors in Gozitan villages as a gesture of welcome and goodwill.
The island has no significant tides. As the water surges from one end of the Mediterranean to the other, the depth at the center stays static which is where Malta is located. The sea around the island is deep, clear and very blue. On occasion a lone shark will stray close to shore, however this is rare. The waters are safe for swimming. Windsurfing is excellent due to prevailing winds during the summer season. In recent years Malta has become a yacht haven with excellent berthing facilities at extremely competitive rates. Going to the beach is more likely going to the rocks. Malta has some beautiful beaches but a lot of its shores are jagged limestone. Still they come from all over, to see and to be seen. A flurry of wholesome youth at the shoreline seeking a tan, romance, and the adventure of a lifetime before they return to the mundane reality of life. What a way to live a dream.
None of which was readily apparent to the first-time young California visitors who were in Malta at the behest of their Maltese-born immigrant parents. They had come to check it out. To discover their roots and identity. They would have preferred to visit better known destinations, but did not wish to risk their inheritance. So they went along graciously if not enthusiastically. Much to their surprise, the island had a lot more to offer than they conceived. It was one unforgettable surprise after the other. A world they had never seen, unlike America and its break-neck culture. Quaint was fun, different and exciting. The people were incredible. Family and friends treated them royally. It was an endless stream of invitations to parties, discos and dinners. The pastizzi were sumptuous, as was the rabbit sauce which graced many a pasta dish. They savored the mouth-watering Maltese bread dipped in olive oil, smeared with sun-drenched sweet tomatoes, and topped with capers. The Maltese cuisine was a far departure from the fast-foods of Los Angeles. More rustic, Mediterranean, and full of soul. They toured extensively. In all of the USA they had never encountered such antiquity and such wonders in so small a place. They had never witnessed enormous bastions and fortifications such as surrounded the three cities, and graced the magnificent Valletta, deep-water harbor. Nowhere on earth had they ever encountered pre-historic temples that date back to 6000BC. Indiana Jones, could not have done better. This was the real stuff. The sub-terrainean burial complexes and the many catacombs fired their macabre imagination. The stone terraced fields were beautiful and romantic giving the countryside a warm glow of tranquillity accented by the earthly smell of hay. Late afternoons, they noticed the patina of aging stone as the crimson sun set in all of its majesty. The evening breezes carried the sweet smell of jasmine amidst the sparkling stars and the fullest of moons. It was over much too soon. They would return as indeed they did over and over again. Having visited many other destinations they still rank Malta at the top. Some of their friends have been to Malta at their urgings. Many agreed that Malta is a gem worth visiting. They vowed shorter stays at other countries to better assimilate themselves with what the island has to offer. Perhaps it was love at first sight, but one cannot argue with the heart. They will be back. Only in Malta!