In the 18th century the festa was only a small affair. Its rustic character, more often than not through the generosity of some local benefactor, took the shape generally of the distribution of bread, ring-cakes, almonds, wine and fruit among the people attending the religious ceremonies or of food or money to the poor of the village. By the 18th century some sort of illumination by firewood and oil lamps had crept in and we read of small mortars being fired at Birkirkara on St. Helen's Day in 1738.

The festa season lasts roughly from May to September, the months into which most of the village and town festas have been crammed. This ensures that the weather will not undo the work and preparations of a whole year.

Traditional festas have kept up with inflation, becoming more lavish even though costs have spiralled. No fewer than 90 festas are celebrated every year in Malta's towns and villages, nearly all of them in summer. Half the number are dedicated to Our Lady.

Old and new customs have been conveniently merged to ensure that festas do not fade out with the passage of time.

Festas are the battle of the bulge for many! Mobile kiosks which used to sell hot-dogs and ice-cream today also sell burgers and kebabs. The chip friers and the "mqaret" makers are here. "Mqaret" are delicious pastry stuffed with a concoction of dates. There is popcorn and candy floss and Matterhorns of ice-cream. There is also food whose conception and execution are a dark mystery to all save the cook who created it.

Nougat is culturally bound to the Maltese festa. There is the white nougat with almonds or peanuts and the brown and harder variety made for neolithic teeth. The wooden nougat stalls are decorated and the nougat wrapped in different colored foil.

Some village feats have kept their particular characteristics. The parish of St. Helen in Birkirkara, for instance, remains the only one to brave the August sun by holding its procession in the morning. At Mgarr an auction is held among those wishing to carry the statue of Santa Marija, the job going to the highest bidders. At St. Julian, hunters on the roof of the church fire a salute as the procession comes out of the church, St. Julian having been a hunter himself. If you happen to be around don't take fright for only colored ribbons come out of the gun barrel.

On the day of the festa the Maltese wish their saints a happy birthday. This is done with eclat and at a high pitch and with astonishing ardor. There is much pealing of bells, noisy petards and splendid fireworks. On this day the church looks at its very best. Outside it is all lit up while inside many of its treasures are exhibited. There are stupendous flower arrangements, rich damasks, silver candelabra, the smell of incense. Richly embroidered church vestments are used for the solemn High Mass. It is fitting backdrop to what happens outside.

The streets are illuminated. There is bunting, papier-mache angels, and decorated columns along the streets. Women wear carats of dowry gold and everyone spends money and looks as if they are about to stage a scene in some soap opera.

There is always a band or two trying ib the face of considerable difficulties to play a secular air from some opera, or a march written by a Maltese composer.

The festa is a theatrical performance at its best. Everyone has a role to play and plays it if not to perfection at least with panache. As in life itself there are compromises on the day of the festa: spirituality mixed with popular taste, devotional images and secular goings-on, baroque imagery and down-to-earth rivalry, pageantry, and pettiness.. All harmless and touching because of its very simplicity. If the saints are really watching they must be at least smiling on their birthdays.

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(Reprinted with permission from "MALTA This Month, May '95 --- The In-Flight Magazine of AIR MALTA).
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